From the clack of the loom to the swish of the gown, silk tells a story all its own. Here in Uzbekistan, that story began almost two thousand years ago and is still being told today.
The gorgeous silk and semi-silk fabrics woven here are born of the intricate ikat weaving technique found in far-flung corners of the world, though it is here in Uzbekistan that we find the most captivating, expressive ikat. It’s a long journey from cocoon to loom as the warp yarns are bound and dyed by hand before they are woven with the weft yarns. The creative skills needed for this almost magical process have been handed down through the ages from generation to generation. The result? Stunning, dynamic patterns on a fabric so soft it flows through your fingers, shimmering with all the colours of the rainbow.
In Uzbekistan, ikat are known as abr, from the Persian word for ‘cloud’ referring to the hallmark patterns said to have fallen from the heavens. We can recognise three main types of Uzbek abr: atlas with its striking colour contrasts and mesmerising motifs; the softer tones of adras with their ribbed surface ideal for covers and furnishings, and the regal, airy shoyi.
This recent publication, The Renaissance of Uzbek Silk, is as gorgeous as the silks it describes. Alongside a full chronology of abr fabrics, from the discovery of silk through the rise of weaving traditions right up to the birth of modern, classical Uzbek ikat, this luxury hardback edition contains a wealth of mouth-watering examples of silks through the ages, from royal robes to simple soft furnishings. We are also introduced to modern-day artisans who tell us of the complicated dyeing techniques and the natural recipes they use to achieve their stunning colours. A whole chapter is devoted to a detailed description of how the patterns and motifs characteristic of each region evolved into the decorative modern fabrics produced today. Since the yarns are dyed by hand using natural plant dyes and the master creates each design individually, every length of fabric is a unique, never to be repeated work of art.
And this has caught the eye of fashion designers. Acknowledged as some of the most unusual and visually dramatic examples of Central Asian silk, Uzbek national textiles are conquering the runways. The originality and exceptional beauty of these fabrics delights fashion designers, piquing the imagination of famous couturiers and young designers alike.
Abr textiles are also becoming an increasingly popular feature in modern home décor and interior design.
No matter where it is worn, Uzbek ikat shimmers with enchanting, vibrant colours, linking East and West through the exotic beauty of the Silk Road.
